Seville's monumental heart fits into a three-hour walk. Here rose the great mosque and its minaret, here kings and discoverers swore allegiance, and from these streets ships set out for a new world. Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, is today a maze of courtyards and alleys where every corner hides a plaque, a legend or a balcony of geraniums. The route follows the old town's natural order, from Doña Elvira to the Alcázar, ending at the Setas with the city at your feet.
The route
Apartamento Esencia Sevilla
Starting point. From here, bus C1/C2 or taxi to the centre (10 min): the route begins in the old town.
Tip: Leave before 9:30am to see Santa Cruz almost empty.
Plaza de Doña Elvira
The prettiest square in Santa Cruz: tiles, orange trees and ceramic benches.
Tip: Don Juan's Doña Elvira was allegedly born here. Perfect mid-morning light.
Real Alcázar
Europe's oldest royal palace still in use. Mudéjar palaces and endless gardens.
Tip: Buy tickets online days ahead: the queue in the sun takes over an hour. Enter via Patio de Banderas.
Best time: First slot (9:30am)
Archivo General de Indias
The memory of the Spanish Empire: 80 million pages about the Americas. Free entry.
Tip: Pop in even for 20 minutes: the imperial staircase and rotating exhibition are worth it.
Catedral y La Giralda
The world's largest Gothic cathedral and its Almohad minaret turned bell tower.
Tip: La Giralda climbs via ramps, not stairs: 34 numbered sections. Columbus' tomb included.
Casa de Pilatos
16th-century palace fusing Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance. The "little Alcázar" without queues.
Tip: The upper floor is guided-tour only (included). The staircase is Seville's most photographed.
Setas de Sevilla (Metropol Parasol)
The world's largest wooden structure. Panoramic viewpoint 28 metres above the city.
Tip: Go up at sunset: the ticket includes the skywalk and an immersive video.