North of the tourist centre, the city lives its real life. The Alameda de Hércules, Europe's oldest public garden, is today the alternative Seville's living room; Calle Feria keeps the oldest market and the Thursday flea market; and the Macarena guards the city's most beloved Virgin beside the last Almohad wall gate. A route for those who already know the usual sights.
The route
Apartamento Esencia Sevilla
Route starting point. Leave the apartment towards the first stop.
Mercado de Feria
Seville's oldest market (1719). Fish, vegetables and pure neighbourhood bars.
Tip: On Thursdays, Feria street fills with the "El Jueves" flea market.
Alameda de Hércules
Europe's oldest public garden (1574), today the city's alternative hub.
Tip: Vermouth at midday on any of its terraces; at night, gigs and fringe theatre.
Basílica de la Macarena
Home of the Esperanza Macarena, Seville's most venerated Virgin. Museum of her treasures.
Tip: Enter through the basilica (free) and look at the embroidered mantle she wears on Madrugá night.
Arco de la Macarena y Muralla
The only surviving gate of the Almohad wall, next to its longest preserved stretch.
Tip: The wall can be followed 400 metres west: medieval Seville still alive.
Parlamento de Andalucía (Hospital de las Cinco Llagas)
Spain's largest Renaissance hospital, now seat of the regional Parliament.
Tip: The central courtyard and church can be visited by appointment (Parliament website, free).
